From Mike:
I’ve achieved solely minimal hand software woodworking till the previous 12 months. Now that I’ve gotten some expertise I like working with hand instruments and am trying to spherical out my backsaw assortment. I used to be studying up on carcass and tenon saws just lately and heard a well-known and effectively revered authority available saws say that there isn’t any distinction within the reducing capability or high quality of reduce between a rip filed noticed and a cross-cut sample if the TIP is 10 or greater. I’m curious what your ideas and expertise are on this. Is there any specific benefit to protecting these finer saws all rip patterned?
From Damon:
My understanding is that the standard knowledge is for hand software customers to have decrease workbenches than energy software customers, and that hand planing is a major motive for that advice. Stanley and Lie Nielsen planes each have ahead leaning handles which appear to favor a decrease bench, however I exploit primarily Veritas bench planes. Do the extra upright handles of the Veritas planes favor a better bench?
I’m 6’3” and my present bench is 34” tall.
From Max:
I just lately bought my first block aircraft, the Lie-Nielsen Rabbet Block Pane, as a result of I believed this is able to be an important multi use software; able to trimming tenon shoulders and faces in addition to doing all of the duties a standard block aircraft may deal with. I additionally bought a shoulder aircraft quickly after that, considering it will be one other useful gizmo for the arsenal.
I now am within the common 60-1/2 adjustable mouth block aircraft (significantly for its use as a kumiko strip thicknesser), and am apprehensive I’ll have impulsively bought the flawed block aircraft. So my query is this- Is it good to have each a rabbet block aircraft and shoulder aircraft, and/or each block planes? And does the rabbet block aircraft do issues that the shoulder aircraft can’t?
From Al:
I do know Mike makes use of fumed oak in his work and I noticed Ben’s video when he was experimenting with the fuming, which motivated me to do some experiment of my very own. My experiment wasn’t as elaborate as yours, it concerned some crimson oak bought from Lowe’s, some janitorial energy Ammonia from Ace {Hardware} and a plastic container. However even with the crimson oak, I used to be stunned, after 24 hours I obtained such a deep darkish brown colour. I connected an image of my check items. So I made a decision to make a small tea field with crimson oak from the identical supply and use my fuming course of for ending. I positioned my field in my fuming container and after about an hour went to examine the field and transfer it to a special place, whereas transferring the field I obtained careless and an fringe of one of many boards obtained moist with the ammonia, I eliminated the board from the container and wiped it off and let it dry, at first I believed the sting is darker as a result of it’s moist, however after an hour it was clear that the colour had modified. Somewhat than dwelling with my mistake, I made a decision to moist all the field with ammonia and place it within the fuming container, after about 6 hours I obtained my anticipated consequence. I connected two footage with totally different lighting.
How come I obtained this darkish colour from crimson oak? In every single place I searched they talked about that crimson oak doesn’t have sufficient Tannin to provide darkish colours, I repeated the experiment with totally different items of crimson oak and kind of obtained the identical consequence. Absolutely, I’m not the primary particular person that permit ammonia truly contact the wooden slightly than fuming. What stops the specialists from portray, spraying or dipping the wooden within the ammonia. I’m certain there’s a good motive that I’m not conscious of?
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